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This view is of the east side of the Skagit river where downtown Mount Vernon is now. Various publications indicate either 1879 or 1881, but we think 1880 is correct because the Ruby House hotel is in the scene. The photographer was standing about where the west end of the bridge to Mount Vernon and the Memorial highway is now. Note the flag at the left. We know that the scene was after 1877 because that is when pioneer John Lorenzy (also spelled Lorensey in some records) shinnied up that tall cedar to attach and unfurl Old Glory. The tree burned in the famous Mount Vernon fire of 1891. John and Blanche Lorenzy later owned the Brooklyn Hotel. The late Maxine Meyers of Lyman loaned this photo to be scanned and handwritten notes by Lyman pioneer Henry Cooper on the back identify some of the structures. From left to right, you will see the Bonanza Saloon; Clothier & English general store, the first building in town, with Skagit Ned's upstairs; the Ruby House/McNamara Hotel; a floating house on the river; a drug store owned by Dr. D.Y. Deere; and a logging camp. The steamer Glide is on the river. Henry Cooper described this photo as being what Mount Vernon looked like when he and his cousin Henry Cooper Leggett arrived. Can you tell us anything more about this photo? |
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Every time I look at my Evans engraving, I come away confused again. Apparently, the picture does indeed (as claimed in the Skagit News in 1889) look down from about the Catholic church site (then and now). The cut-off, steep, old street that runs along the south side of the First Baptist Church is the present Division St. The Elwood picture seems to look down that street, though just a bit from the south side (roughly, where the Catholic church is today). If that's Division, then it comes to a dead stop at what I guess is the present Main ("brick") St. The store was a bit south of the northern end of the land bought by C&E. Surely, the C&E store was at what we might think of as the corner of Front St. and Montgomery St. — the old Eddy's Furniture. I [originally thought] that the store had been where the Carnation Plaza parking lot is now -- where there was a "creamery" before Stewart took over and built his big condensery. The Carnation site, after all, was outside the ten acres purchased by C&E. But [the late] Roger Fox was very definite about the store's having been at the Eddy site. I stood on the [west] side of the river with an early town photo and triangulated to the hills behind the town. I found the spot from which the picture was taken by concentrating on the hills, mostly Little Mountain. It was obvious that the C&E store in the picture was at the present Eddy site.We have not addressed a few of the buildings or locations that Tom referenced, but we will below. There were no newspapers in this area at the time, but luckily we found the April 9, 1877, issue of The Northern Star of Snohomish City in the county to the south. Publisher Eldridge Morse paddled his canoe up the Skagit two or three times a year in those days and in this issue he describes how quickly the new little village appeared:
My "triangulating" showed the Washington Hotel to be just inside the northern end of that land. In fact, it looked as if part of the hotel was on what is now the incline leading up on to the bridge. Washington Hotel burned [in 1891]. Looking at my Evans steel-print engraving, it certainly does look as if the north part of the building stuck out into what would become Division when the [wagon] bridge was built [in 1892, opened in 1893]. I do not know when Division got its name, probably not all that early. As to the Brice residence, the 1906 history says it was on the townsite, which means that it would not have been north of what became Division. At the time of Eldridge Morse's 1877 visits it appears that what was on the land north of Division was William Gage's lumber camp. The ferry landing in my picture seemed to be below the Carnation Plaza parking lot, perhaps its northern end. Where I was standing north of the present bridge, my location appeared to be about where the Westside landing was.
I'm not sure, but I think that what Gates sold to C&E would have included all of First Street. I don't have any idea whether what they bought was a rectangle with a short side along the river or one with a long side along the river. Anything outside of that in Gates's quarter section, only Gates could have sold, though it would not be surprising if there had been middlemen who purchased from Gates and who then sold later to others for houses and businesses. I haven't seen any evidence that Gates ran what would in effect have been a real estate business.
It is only about one year, or little more since our first visit to the jam. Then there was nothing above the lower jam, near these jams, besides the loggers' camp that a person would notice in the shape of business. Now just adjoining Mr. Gage's logging works we found a town starting into life with all the various institutions incident to a business centre. Messrs. Clothier & English had just erected a two-story building, the lower story for a general merchandise store, while above was a public hall. Only a short distance from this store was Mr. Jonathan's Shott's new hotel, also two stories in height and well fitted to accommodate those likely to visit it there. . . . Mr. Cottenbaugh is putting up a very tasty house. We also met Mr. [John] Cornelius of the Swinomish, who was up there to survey the new townsite and plat it, so that each one would know their boundaries. Others are preparing to build. For the present at least until after the removal of the jam and the starting of a town higher up the river, it will be quite a business centre catching a good deal of up river trade; but the largest permanent town will in time be built above the jam.Recalling Shott's hotel in an interview for the Illustrated History 30 years later, Clothier said: "It seems not to have been a palatial edifice, inasmuch as its total cost did not exceed one hundred and fifty dollars. But the habitues of the place were not very numerous nor were they over fastidious in their tastes." The exact location was "on the east side of Front street near the [C&E] store. For old-timers, that would be just west of about where your folks took you to sit on Santa's lap at Sears Roebuck. The Shotts had been in the area for at least three years. In their divorce papers, recorded three years later, the husband gave 1874 as their arrival date and Minerva Bozarth Kimble, David's wife, swore that she had known the wife since they were little girls, so that probably means that the couple came from Missouri and that they moved out here to join the Kimble clan who moved to the river from Whidbey island in 1871-72, after David staked his claim south of town in early 1870. In a seldom-noted story from the Illustrated History, Indian agent McGlinn described the Shott hotel in wonderful detail. We think Mrs. Shott's first name was Maggie, but we hope that a descendant will respond:
Mrs. Shott [operated] the hotel, which consisted of one room and a kitchen, with a loft overhead for the traveling public to spread their blankets. I remember, after eating a hearty supper of bacon and eggs (Mrs. Shott was a good cook), I reached the garret by climbing a ladder through a trap door. A tallow candle illuminated the room where there were already a dozen or so men asleep.Cottenbaugh, who was a cook at the William Gage logging camp north of the townsite, built his structure somewhere between the store and the hotel, initially planning for it to be a restaurant for the crews in the various nearby camps and the men working on the logjams, but Clothier commented, "Sad to relate, but inevitable, this same building was opened at the beginning of the next year by John A. Bievel [actually spelled Bieble] as a saloon." That business soon became known as the Bonanza Saloon, according to notes by Lyman pioneer Henry Cooper. The writer's sadness seems contradictory because Whatcom county granted a liquor license to Otto Klement on May 14, 1877. Other names on the license were Ed. G. English and Harrison Clothier, so we assume that it was for sales at the store. The bond was for $500 for six months. Klement would continue as a partner in various ventures with the two men over the next seven years. The first actual house was erected at the far-north end of the townsite for Dr. William Brice. Back in Missouri in 1855, Brice married the widow Nancy Snodgrass Kimble, mother of David E. Kimble.
In June of that year an Indian scare was precipitated that looked serious. Upwards of 1,000 Indians in around 200 canoes presented themselves at the foot of the jam on the way to the upper river. Their attitude towards the Whites seemed unusually sullen and dire forebodings were read in their painted faces. An entire day and night was consumed in moving their canoes and plunder around what remained of the jam. Meanwhile the air was rendered vibrant with their uncanny yells.Messengers were dispatched to remote settlements to communicate the impending danger, especially when the village leaders learned that Indians had bought out the stock of firearms, gunpowder and ammunition available at LaConner. Klement was actually upriver cruising timber at the time and when word reached that area, he met with Indians to help defuse the situation. Downriver, Bob Pringle, a Civil War veteran, mustered up a militia force. Calmer heads on both sides averted any real battle and everyone went back home, but the conflict simmered underneath the surface and would re-emerge within two or three years.
[A sternwheeler, possibly the Chehalis], docked at Mann's Landing and from there the party went by dugout canoe to Mount Vernon. That was their first experience with dugout canoes, the prime means of transportation on the Skagit, which came to be as common to them as automobiles are today. There wasn't much to see at Mount Vernon. Pressentin recalls the shack occupied by Clothier and English, the traders, and another occupied by a Mrs. Shott who was their landlady for the night. They slept on the floor. The bedding which they had carried with them and which had represented their "Pullman accommodations" on the train trip out, came in handy again, but it would have been hard to find a greater contrast to their home in Manistee [Wisconsin].The main business and the highest priority in those first three years was removing the log jams so that upriver navigation could proceed, bringing settlers, farmers and miners, as well as a vehicle for transporting logs down from the camps that stretched from Sterling, founded in 1878 by logger Jesse Beriah Ball, all the way up to Birdsview and the area that would soon be named Jackman creek/Van Horn. We read in the Illustrated History:
The first thing that the young boy saw, to his great surprise, when he woke in the morning, was the sun streaming through the cracks between the rough-hewn hoards that made up the walls of the shack. Fortunately the weather was pleasantly mild that January. Clothier and English had a "store", but the name was appropriate only because there was nothing better in that frontier settlement. It was just a one-room cabin, not large, with a fireplace at one end for heat and cooking, bunks for sleeping and the living equipment intermingled with the merchandise. Mrs. Pressentin, her son recalls, bought out most of the stock, including all the flour, all the sugar (brown), and whatever coffee was on hand. Her shopping expedition, left the store's stock reduced to a few pairs of overalls and some chewing tobacco. Paul's uncle Ben, who had come out with his brother the year before, met them at Mount Vernon and accompanied them up the river to their future home.
The peripatetic Star man has preserved [from 1877] an interesting picture of the appearance of the work in progress at that time upon the Skagit jam. He found two flourishing logging camps, one belonging to Mr. Hanscomb [south of the townsite] and another to William Gage [directly north]. Both these men had been enabled by the work done even at that time on the jam to get out timber of magnificent quality previously unavailable. The correspondent noticed one tree without crook or knot from which were cut four twenty-four foot cuts, scaling upwards of six thousand feet of clear lumber each. Both Mr. Hanscomb and Mr. Gage paid the highest tribute to the invaluable work of the jam loggers. The correspondent also visited the store just opened by Messrs. Clothier & English and the hotel just built by Mr. Shott, which together constituted the beginnings of the city of Mount Vernon. The correspondent also becomes acquainted with D. F. Kimble and G. F. Hartson, pioneer settlers of that district, and meets Mrs. [Thomas R.] Jones, Mrs. [William] Gage and Mrs. Isaac Lanning and Ida, the daughter of the last named, who were among the first white women to reach the Skagit river valley above the delta, their entrance to the region being in or prior to 1870. [Actually you can find a much more complete list of the original female settlers at this Journal website]Clothier recalled that in 1878 there was little progress, as only one dwelling was erected, for logger John Gilligan. In 1879, as the lower logjam was largely gone and a channel had opened through the upper jam, population increased and Michael McNamara erected new hotel built of rough lumber for few hundred dollars, on the second lot south of store and christened Ruby House for the Ruby creek mines, which we will review below. Also in 1879, Dr. D.Y. Deere opened the first pharmacy in town. In 1880, Clothier, English and Klement erected a new hotel called the Mount Vernon, directly north of the Ruby House, during a very busy season. Clothier also notes that by New Years 1881 the population of the town itself was 75. We know from 1880 census details that many of those residents were actually loggers and mill-workers from logging camps such as the one for Jesse Ball and for the Rev. B.N.L. Davis.
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