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Skagit River JournalSubscribers Edition The most in-depth, comprehensive site about the Skagit Covers from British Columbia to Puget Sound. Counties covered: Skagit, Whatcom, Island, San Juan, Snohomish & BC. An evolving history dedicated to committing random acts of historical kindness |
Home of the Tarheel Stomp Mortimer Cook slept here & named the town Bug |
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The Bellingham Daily Herald finally agreed to let me try it. They could pay only thirty dollars a week, but if the column was successful, I would get more, they said. As a matter of fact, the crash came two months later [stock market crash of October 1929] and I never got more; instead, three years later, when the depression was badly felt out our way, I was cut to twenty dollars, which precipitated a crisis and another way of life, whereby hangs another tale.Unlike many of her male columnist counterparts, she did not hang out at the blind-pig gin joints and depend on the kindness of strangers and cronies for her tips. Nor did she write for the "Women's section." She soon set out on the road again, traveling up and down the Sunset Highway as Old 99 was then called, covering logging contests and writing them up with sawdust in her hair , hiking the Olympic mountain range and then she discovered the Skagit. Her interviews with pioneers here are quoted at length in other Journal stories and sometimes are the only record we have of those families and their first-generation descendants. Early on at the Herald, she met another free spirit who knew the North Cascades like the back of her hand — Catherine Savage Pulsipher, the baby of the George and Georgetta Savage family, the last of their 11 children together. Soon she was regaling her readers with tales, some tall, of the mountain folk of the upper Skagit river. She opens Chapter 19 of Living High with this one:
Before long, people began to tell me of stories I could get for my column — stories of the men and women of Puget Sound. A young banker said he had been up in the mountains, evaluating some property [maybe A. Bingham of Sedro?]. He was climbing an obscure trail in the snow when he saw tracks coming from and returning into the hills where he knew there was no house. The tracks were extraordinarily far apart, such long strides that he thought at first they must have been made by a very tall man. Then he realized that the man had been running. Someone must be in trouble.
The banker turned off the trail and followed the tracks up and up, on the chance that help was needed. Further and further into the forest he went until he came to a ravine. Down below he heard someone working. He went to the edge of the ravine, looked over, and shouted to the lone workman splitting out shake bolts. A little old woman looked up.
"Whaddayawant?" she shrilled up at him, not very hospitably.
"I saw tracks of somebody running," the young man called back to her, "and I thought there might be trouble. I followed the tacks to find out."
"Naw," she said, "I just went out to get me a box of snuff.
Catherine fishing 1970.
From the original Herald article.
The Quackenbush sisters and Mountain Katy There was a big woman, fully of bosomy laughter, who owned a rural telephone company, managed her business, made her own repairs, climbed the poles herself, and, with her sister, ran a freight boat on a lake behind a waterpower dam. She conducted an orchestra, too, playing for dances or just for fun. Highly cultured, strong, interesting, and brimful of fun. [Ed. note: that of course was Nell Quackenbush Wheelock, who started the Concrete-Lyman-and-points-between telephone company with her sister Kate Quackenbush Gruver. The orchestra was at various times called The Three Blind Mice and we learned a lot about it from Howard Royal, the grandfather of our upriver sidekick Dan Royal and a man who truly grew up on a stumpranch. The Quackenbush sisters will be profiled at length in Issues 30 and 31.]
When my column threatened to go stale, I had two favorite things to do — take a boat to the islands, or the "galloping goose" to Sedro-Woolley and thence to Mountain Katy's. She was a wild free one from whom I got many of my tales, and she and I were forever setting off together after new adventures.Below we share a letter from Mountain Katy, herself, Catherine Savage Pulsipher , who corresponded with her old friend from Hamilton, Hazel Parker, on a regular basis while Katy lived in Portland.
There was a government fish hatchery at Birdsview where I once watched men in hip boots catching the weary, heavy salmon, collecting eggs and sperm, tending the miniature sockeye, returning them to the stream to find their perilous way back to sea. [That was the hatchery on Grandy creek on the north shore of the Skagit river where August Kemmerich's family originally homesteaded, now part of Rasar State Park.]
There was a soapstone mine in the steep side of a hill above the river. We reached it in a truck driven across the upper Skagit on a railroad bridge. Our wheels straddled the trails and there were no side walls on the bridge, which was covered with snow and ice the day I went. There were not six inches to spare between our port wheels and the rocky river bed far below, but the driver hardly slowed down. "you'll go when your time comes," he said.
The Skagit is Puget Sound's most interesting river. It rises on a glacier on a mountain in Canada, cuts down through wild country, drains a vast mountain wilderness, gathers more and more white glacier water as it runs, stops at Seattle [City Light's] Diablo Dam to fill an immense lake, turn a few big turbines, and roars down, snatching bits of soil wherever it can, depositing them on the rich level acres of the famous LaConner Seed Flats down where the Skagit flows into the sea. That land is so rich and valuable that the taxes alone are sometimes as high as $15 an acre. [For comparison, she notes elsewhere in the book that their taxes on Sentinel island in the San Juans were $1 per year.]
A pioneer who had come to Skagit county and had helped to reclaim the tide flats from the sea and build the dikes, gave me his diary in which the whole storey of the river was told [who was it?]. It filled my column for days. He was one of the last of the old-timers and he died shortly afterwards, but not before he had seen his story in print and had the rare satisfaction of knowing his job had been completed from the dream to the recording of the accomplishment. Today they are still growing cabbage, turnip, radish, beet, flower and cauliflower seed on his flats, and the Skagit still drains his acres, but it is controlled now and no longer brings down quite as much silt as it used to do.
Most of the rivers of Puget sound come down through National Forests because there are National Forests on most of the mountain crests. The Nooksack and the Skagit both flow through Mt. Baker National Forest. Mountain Katy and I often went into that forest for stories, wading the wet underbrush, pulling ourselves across the mountain streams on go-devils], eating huckleberries and blueberries until our tongues were black, stopping to swim in icy water or to lunch on some river's white beach.
June and Katy go climbing Once I decided to go up to a lookout station and find out how foresters locate fires and set up the machinery to fight them. Katy and I checked in at the head ranger station and got permission to climb the thirteen miles to the lookout station. Then Katy went off in another direction to visit her husband and I tackled the climb alone, always a richer adventure than with even the best of companions.
ut the forest is so threaded with fire-fighting telephones that the ranger soon discovered Katy wasn't with me and he sent a man on horseback in pursuit. All day long I walked. Up and up, through burned-over desolation where some careless camper had left a spark to flare and burn a thousand trees whose snags now commemorate his passing. 'Through cool dells where water ran fast. Over curious marshes on the mountainside, weaving in and out of the forest up to the timberline.
Just as I approached the open flowery meadow which marked the end of the forest proper and the beginning of the almost treeless mountaintop, the man on horseback overtook me, leading his tired beat. And down from the lookout station came another man. From here on I was to be well guided. Since one of the lookout boys had come, the man with the horse decided to remain in the meadow overnight where his horse could nip the grass. He would take me down the mountain next day.
At the foot of the mountain I had been hot, but I was cold now. We entered the snow and in no time my feet were soaking wet. Huckleberry bushes emptied bucketsful of water in my boots. We followed the telephone line up and down, until at long last e came to a little tent on the very peak of a pointed knoll at the top of the world.
Inside the tent two boys were preparing a feast. The supplies had come not long before. They cooked everything and we ate it all. I wondered how they would solve the problem of putting up a woman guest but it didn't bother them for a second. They hung a tarpaulin down from the ridgepole of the tent, unrolled their sleeping bags on one side of it, and mine on the other. We lay there, talking across it, for hours. One of the boys could sing, another told stories and the third remembered all the poetry he had ever read.
Just as we were falling asleep, the fiercest thunderstorm I have ever experienced broke over the mountain. The lightning kept up such a steady flash it was like daylight for minutes at a time. It cracked inside, along the telephone line. And how it thundered! During all that racket the telephone rang and had to be answered. The wind blew a gale. Thunder spattered against the mountain like a giant repeater. I love thunderstorms but that one was enough to last me a long time — until now, in fact, for I have never seen another as spectacular.
Next morning, when the boys went out to the sundial-looking contraption set level on a hemlock stump atop the point of the mountain to look for fires, there wasn't a fire in all the forest [EN-Poets]. If there had been one, they would have taken an azimuth reading, other lookout would have taken readings, the fire would have been precisely located and men sent to put it out.
A crown fire, started by lightning, may leap from treetop to treetop, and set up a roaring inferno that will destroy great sections of forest before it can be controlled. Ground fires, caused by cigarettes or campfires or careless logging operations, are more easily controlled if they are caught in time. But because there are so many more of these, they are the most frequent cause of burning down the forests. Sometimes fires are set by the unemployed so that they may get work fighting them. Sometimes they are set by farmers who want to clear more grazing land for their animals. Greed in some form or other is at the root of many fires. But wanton carelessness in logging operations has burned down too much of our forests and sent up in smoke enough timber to employ thousands of men for many years, to build tens of thousands of homes to say nothing of water conservation, flood control and beauty.
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Thanks to Dan Royal, we have a montage of Mountain Katy. He is the publisher of our sister publication, the Stump Ranch Online/Upriver edition, and he is related to the Savages through his great-grandmother, who was a sister George Savage's wife. These are photos of Catherine as a young girl growing up in Hamilton, and the cover of a dime novel that Dan has collected. |
Katy dear, I could just spank you for burning those letters so full of woods lore! If I hadn't thought you'd have more respect for and appreciation of them than that, I'd have hung onto them even if I never did anything with them! Yes, if you can do a real consecutive story in ballads — or even separate ballads of all the phases of life on the Skagit in the old times and now, I am sure my publisher would be interested. Write a half dozen or so and send them to him as samples. Use the one in the Sounder, if you like — books often take from magazine-published things, you know. You can find name on my book. It's Duell, Sloan and Pearce, 270 Madison Avenue, NYC. Love to my Mountain Katy and bes to all hers — the BD Savages, Bert, your husband, Zola and Mrs. Pressentine and her family. My NY address will be: c/o P.H. Lovering, 523 W. 121st, NYC. June.That was an important piece of the puzzle to mull over. For the next few months I played detective and finally connected a few pieces. As you will read in our accompanying biography of June and Farrar, they traveled back to New York now and then to check in with her publisher and renew old friendships. P.H. Lovering was a science fiction writer of short stories, including When The Earth Grew Cold, The Color Out of Space and Inevitable Conflict (in Italy called The Horror that Comes from the East), mainly in magazines such as Amazing Stories Quarterly. But then a reader sent us information that challenged our assumption. According to a Seattle Times obituary of Nov. 2, 1943, a Times editor named Paul H. Lovering died in Seattle on that day. Born in Philadelphia, he grew up in the South and moved out to Seattle in 1909 after attending the Alaska-Yukon Exposition. We will have to research more to determine which Lovering they visited in New York. Whoever it was, he either left a key under the mat for when they visited, or loaned them his couch.
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Would you like information about how to join them? Please let us show you residential and commercial property in Sedro-Woolley and Skagit County 2204 Riverside Drive, Mount Vernon, Washington . . . 360 708-8935 . . . 360 708-1729 Oliver Hammer Clothes Shop at 817 Metcalf Street in downtown Sedro-Woolley, 86 years. Joy's Sedro-Woolley Bakery-Cafe at 823 Metcalf Street in downtown Sedro-Woolley. Check out Sedro-Woolley First section for links to all stories and reasons to shop here first or make this your destination on your visit or vacation. Are you looking to buy or sell a historic property, business or residence? We may be able to assist. Email us for details. Peace and quiet at the Alpine RV Park, just north of Marblemount on Hwy 20 Park your RV or pitch a tent by the Skagit River, just a short drive from Winthrop or Sedro-Woolley |
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