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Skagit River JournalFree Home Page Stories & Photos The most in-depth, comprehensive site about the Skagit Covers from British Columbia to Puget Sound. Counties covered: Skagit, Whatcom, Island, San Juan, Snohomish & BC. An evolving history dedicated to committing random acts of historical kindness |
Home of the Tarheel Stomp Mortimer Cook slept here & named the town Bug |
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This 1899 photo comes from the tremendous book, Kinsey Photographer by Dave Bohn and Rodolfo Petschek, published in 1982 and now out of print, but it is found in bookstores all over the state. The photographer was Darius Kinsey, who moved here two years before. We are looking south from P.A. Woolley's original mill site, later the nucleus of the company that became Skagit Steel & Iron Works. We see the famous triangle of tracks formed by the three rail lines that crossed here in 1890. That was the reason for Woolley picking this site for his company town. Behind the trains you can see the first main street of old Woolley, Northern Avenue, with the Keystone Hotel and Saloon at the right, beside the tracks, and Schneider's general store at the left. You can see the octagonal town gazebo/bandstand at the center left; it is now located behind a private home. At the far right rear, you can see the two-story Hotel Royal of Charles Villeneuve, the only known photo of it. Behind that is the laundry building. Woolley's mill grounds are in the right foreground. For more information about this triangle and the three rail lines that crossed here, read this webpage. |
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Nov. 8, 1889, left Chicago for Seattle; traveled Sunday and on Monday noon arrived at Minneapolis; remained there until Tuesday noon.That is sadly the last entry from the diary, leaving out the details of the purchase of the town site and its initial setup. With the help of the late Bob Wilcox, we contacted Mrs. Doxsee's daughter in California in 1993 but she informed us that her mother was suffering from Alzheimer's and they had no knowledge of the diary. It was either sold to an antiques dealer or passed on to some other family. We hope a reader will some day tell us that it has been found. Regardless, we know that Philip, always known as P.A. by that time, immediately set out planning his mill and company town a mile northwest of old Sedro by the river, and Catherine returned to Elgin to finalize the family's move with daughter Kate and sons Bill and Philip "Bert." From the way they were phrased, the entries posed two big questions. 1) Was this Woolley's first trip to the territory? 2) If it was, how did he know where the three railroads would cross and form a natural townsite? We believe that this was indeed P.A.'s first trip here and in answer to number two, Territorial Attorney General James Bard Metcalfe had done a lot of the groundwork by the time that the Woolleys arrived. In gratitude, P.A. named the main north-south street in town, Metcalfe, with the "E." Most of the city newspapers before the turn of the century burned in various fires, but the first time we see the street spelled, Metcalf, is in a February 1901 Skagit County Times. We can only surmise about Woolley's gamble to move out here and make such a commitment, but we do know that at least five factors could have influenced him and Metcalfe. First, the Northern Pacific railroad had completed their tunnel through the Cascades, finally connecting the Great Lakes directly to Seattle. Second, Seattle interests had finalized funding to extend the Seattle Lake Shore & Eastern [SLS&E] West Coast branch through Skagit County a mile west of Sedro. Third, tracks were being laid on a diagonal from Fairhaven on Bellingham Bay to Mortimer Cook's old town of Sedro on the Skagit. The Fairhaven & Southern [F&S] railway was completed on Christmas Eve 1889 after Woolley's arrival. Fourth, the Seattle & Northern line [S&N] was steadily laying tracks east across the county, aiming for a rail bed north of Sedro. And finally, James J. Hill was breathing down everyone's neck, approaching Spokane Falls with tracks for what would become the Great Northern, and hell-bent for reaching the Puget sound and filling his own ships with goods from the Midwest for the Orient.
Nov. 12, left Minneapolis at 1:30. Had pleasant trip. Nov. 13, arrived at Banff Spring in the morning at five; spent all day [they apparently made connections with the Canadian Pacific Railroad]. Am very tired but spent a delightful day here. Here we are 5,000 feet above the sea and scenery is beyond description. There is nothing so grad as nature.
Nov. 16, arrived at the Glacier and saw the sun shine on the great mountain of ice. Saw two bears Nov. 18, arrived at Vancouver. Nov. 21, left Vancouver at 2:30 on the boat Fearless. Had a quiet trip. Nov. 22, arrived at Seattle, had delightful visit with Mrs. Wilder and Mrs. Stiles. [Journal Ed. note: we wonder if the latter lady was a relative of Ira Stiles, second postmaster of Sedro-Woolley and the first master of Masonic Lodge #93 in Woolley in 1893. The 1889 Territorial Census lists one person named Stiles in Sedro, born in North Carolina as were the ancestors of the family of Sedro-Woolley attorney William Stiles.]
Nov. 24, expect to take the boat for Sterling and how I do dread the trip. Nov. 25, still here at Seattle, raining as usual. Nov. 25, on the boat Henry [Bailey] for Sedro. Nov. 26, arrived at Mount Vernon at noon, remain until morning at the Washington hotel. [The Washington was owned by William Murdock, who would soon be the first mayor of the town of Woolley and who bought the land to the east adjoining Woolley's company town.]
Nov. 27, leave at eight on the stage; my first ride on a stage in my life and I never could imagine such roads; arrived at Sedro at noon. Nov. 28, moving into boarding house, all confusion. Nov. 29, Mr. Woolley has gone to Mount Vernon to get the land for the mill. Won't be home before tomorrow.
Nov. 30, Mr. Mr. Woolley has returned and is very tired; has bought 40 acres of land, so everyone commences work on Monday morning; will sleep in our house tonight. Dec. 1, here quietly spending the Sabbath and will write to my Katie this afternoon.
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On that same day, Kinsey swiveled left and looked nearly due east for this photo. On the right you can see a dirt wagon road, originally platted as Southern Avenue, but no longer open as it is here. Today the closest equivalent is the driveway to the old Skagit Steel site. Kinsey was standing at the eastern edge of Philip A. Woolley's mill. The most prominent building in the foreground is the Grays Harbor boarding house, with a fence around it and the barn and other buildings. Or rather that could be the house of the unnamed owner of the boarding house building that is located just to the right and slightly east. Note the many stumps on the lots to the left, where the North Star boarding house would soon rise, the structure that two decades later would become the famous Fern Rooms brothel. That muddy street at the left is Gibson. Across Metcalf Street from the stumps, at the southeast corner of Gibson, is the Gregory Swaim building, with butcher William Doherty's home right behind it. We hope that a reader can identify the other buildings and homes. That prominent two-story white building at the right in the background could be the same building that housed the forestry service in 1950; my late brother Jerry bunked there when he was a volunteer forest-fire fighter. Behind that you can see the bell tower of the old Franklin School. Woolley's home would have been to the left, just out of the photo. |
But while all these developments were in progress in Sedro, a rival for the trade of the surrounding country had been springing up, one destined to handicap for a time the development of the pioneer town, but later to join with it in the outworking of a nobler destiny than either could hope to have achieved alone. This was Woolley. Probably the first public mention of it was a reference in the Skagit County Logger newspaper of April 24, 1890, in which the paper stated that a new town was starting at the junction of the railroads, which would, presumably, be named Hilltown. However, its founder, Philip A. Woolley, says that his plans had been shaping themselves for months before that. In September 1889, shortly after coming to the sound, Mr. Woolley purchased from Ole [Borseth] and George Nelson a timber claim, which they in turn had purchased from Chris Olson, the tract consisting of forty-four acres. Of a man named Moore, he purchased forty more, all of which he platted June 3, 1890, as the town site of Woolley.Contrary to popular opinion, no original trees remain in Sedro-Woolley, except for a handful of cedars in Riverfront Park. Most of the forest that was here when Mortimer Cook arrived was clear-cut by the end of the teen years. Fir trees from this area were prized all over the country, especially as the finest wood for ships' masts, trusses for residential and commercial buildings, and for railroad car and bridge building, exceeding even oak. Albert Mosier described typical 1890s logging methods in a 1950 Sedro-Woolley Courier-Times interview:
[A company named] Mosher and McDonald were logging an area about at the east city limits [he probably meant Murdock Street], using a horse drawn flat car on iron rails from the woods to the river. There was a beautiful stand of timber, principally fir, which was the only wood considered fit to make lumber. There was no sale for cedar; about two million feet burned to clear town lots on the site of the high school. There were firs over 300 feet tall and 16 and 18 feet in diameter at the butt above the swell.If you grew up here, you may be amazed to learn that in the years 1888-1892, the little towns of Sedro and then Woolley were as hot as any town on the western frontier. Financiers from New York and Europe filled the hotels, dancing and prancing girls were on the prowl, and dream merchants and salesmen were at every corner selling their wares. The story that stopped the presses in that period was the arrival of three railroads, the F&S, the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern and the Seattle & Northern, all crossing on a small triangle of tracks just north of the new town of Woolley in a period of less than a year. When we first researched the roots of Sedro back in 1992, the file of documents was slim but over the next few years we discovered more sources in libraries across the state and in family collections after descendants of pioneers read the Journal website or attended our presentations.
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P.A. Woolley's Skagit River Lumber & Shingle Mill, circa 1900, which stood at the southern end of the later Skagit Steel & Iron Works property. The photographer was looking northwest when this photo was taken not long after 1890. The diagonal tracks on the right are those for the Northern Pacific, which are still used today. |
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— Photo by Darius Kinsey |
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Did you enjoy this story? Remember, as with all our features, this story is a draft and will evolve as we discover more information and photos. This process continues until we eventually compile a book about Northwest history. Can you help? We welcome correction and criticism. Please report any broken links or files that do not open and we will send you the correct link. With more than 550 features, we depend on your report. Thank you. Read about how you can order CDs that include our photo features from the first five years of our Subscribers Edition. Perfect for gifts. Would you like information about how to join them? Please let us show you residential and commercial property in Sedro-Woolley and Skagit County 2204 Riverside Drive, Mount Vernon, Washington . . . 360 708-8935 . . . 360 708-1729 Schooner Tavern/Cocktails at 621 Metcalf Street in downtown Sedro-Woolley, across from Hammer Square: www.schoonerwoolley.com web page . . . History of bar and building Oliver Hammer Clothes Shop at 817 Metcalf Street in downtown Sedro-Woolley, 82 years. Joy's Sedro-Woolley Bakery-Cafe at 823 Metcalf Street in downtown Sedro-Woolley, 82 years. Check out Sedro-Woolley First section for links to all stories and reasons to shop here first or make this your destination on your visit or vacation. Are you looking to buy or sell a historic property, business or residence? We may be able to assist. Email us for details. Peace and quiet at the Alpine RV Park, just north of Marblemount on Hwy 20 Park your RV or pitch a tent by the Skagit River, just a short drive from Winthrop or Sedro-Woolley |
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